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Home > Colorless Diamonds > Asscher Cut Diamond

Home > Colorless Diamonds > Asscher Cut Diamond

Home > Colorless Diamonds > Asscher Cut Diamond

Asscher Cut Diamond
Asscher Cut Diamond
Asscher Cut Diamond
Asscher Cut Diamond.

What Is An Asscher Cut Diamond? - Buying Guide


The asscher cut features a square shape with cut corners. A high crown with large step cut facets bestows more brilliance than the other popular step cut shape, the emerald shape. Asscher shaped diamonds are sleek and modern in solitaire settings, and their unique shape perfectly complements vintage inspired styles.

Asscher Cut Diamond

Asscher Cut Diamond.


The asscher cut diamond was first produced in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland, famous at the time for cutting the world's largest rough stone (the Cullinan, at 3,106 carats). Asscher cut diamonds originally peaked in popularity in the 1920's, and could recently be found only in antique jewellery shops. Around 2002, one hundred years after the first asscher cut diamond was created, the shape began to make a comeback, spurred on by cut modifications that gave the shape more brilliance than traditional asscher cut diamonds.

Asscher Cut Diamond Buying Guide


Also referred to as: SQUARE EMERALD CUT


Asscher Cut Diamond Quick Guide


Unique Features
Brightest step cut, "hall of mirrors" effect
Facets
50 or 58 (Royal Asscher has 74)
L/W Ratio
1.00 - 1.05
Origin
Art-deco era, early 20th Century
Expert Tip
Clarity VS1/VS2 and higher is optimal


Asscher Cut Diamond Ring


Asscher Cut Diamond Ring
Asscher Cut Diamond Ring.


Asscher Cut Diamond Features



Asscher Cut Diamond Features

Asscher Cut Diamond Features.


The asscher cut is a unique shape with prismatic brilliance and a rectangular faceted pavilion in the same style as the emerald cut. The standard number of main facets on an asscher cut is usually 58 and the typical ratio for the more popular square shaped Asscher cuts is 1.00 to 1.05.

The width of the cut corners may vary. Replete with timeless elegance and Art-Deco cool, the asscher cut is a rectangular shape similar to the more well known emerald cut, with prismatic brilliance, with its deep pavilion, faceted culet, high crown and small table, the asscher cut allows for tremendous lustre and creates a fascinating optical illusion known as the "Hall of Mirrors" effect.

The asscher cut is referred to as a Square Emerald cut on a laboratory certificate, such as GIA or AGS. Although confusion reigns about what the differences are between an asscher cut and a square emerald cut, they are in fact the same thing. However, there also exists a much rarer Royal Asscher cut, which is a patented version of the original Asscher cut with wide cut corners and 74 facets (instead of 58), and is classified as an octagonal step cut by the GIA.

Asscher Cut Diamond Expert Guide


To fully appreciate the asscher design, it is advisable to select a diamond of higher clarity ( VS2 and above for GIA and VS1 and above for EGL, to ensure it is completely eye-clean). A table and depth percentage between 60 - 73.5% and 51 - 77% respectively is also recommended.

The modern asscher cut diamond is similar to a square emerald cut, usually with larger step facets, a higher crown, and a smaller table. This combination often produces more brilliance than the emerald cut. A well cut asscher will appear to have concentric squares as you look down through the table, the result of proper positioning of the pavilion facets underneath. Like the emerald cut, the asscher cut has cropped corners; however, because an asscher is square, the cropped corners give the asscher cut a somewhat octagonal shape. Once mounted in a four prong setting, the diamond maintains its unique shape within a square silhouette.

The classic asscher cut diamond is a square (with a length to width ratio of 1.00); however they are often found in slightly rectangular shapes as well. Any ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye.

The chart below serves as a general guideline for evaluating the cut of an asscher cut diamond:

Asscher Cut Diamond - Cut Guide



Swipe left to see more.
Asscher Cut Diamond Excellent Very Good Good Fair Poor
×
Diamond Depth %

Depth refers to the distance between the culet and the table when a diamond is viewed from the side.

The depth % of a diamond is calculated by dividing the depth of the diamond by the width of the diamond. So, if a diamond is 3 mm in depth, and 4.5 mm in width, its depth % is 66.7.

The lower the depth %, the larger a diamond of a given carat weight will appear when viewed from above (since more of the diamond's size is in its width vs. in its depth).

Depth % is incorporated in the cut grade of a diamond. For this reason, when purchasing a diamond, use the cut grade first (since it balances multiple measurements, not just depth %). Once two diamonds of equal cut are being compared, consider depth % as a further refinement.

Learn more about the anatomy of a diamond.

61 - 67 59 - 60.9 or 67.1 - 70 57 - 58.9 or 70.1 - 74 54 - 56.9 or 74.1 - 79 <54 or >79
×
Diamond Table %

The table is the uppermost, flat surface of a diamond, which runs parallel to the plane of the girdle.

The table % of a diamond is calculated by dividing the width of the table facet by the width of the diamond. So, if the table facet is 3 mm across, and the diamond is 4.5 mm wide, its table % is 66.7.

Table % is incorporated in the cut grade of a diamond. For this reason, when purchasing a diamond, use the cut grade first (since it balances multiple measurements, not just table %). Once two diamonds of equal cut are being compared, consider table % as a further refinement.

Learn more about the anatomy of a diamond.

61 - 69 57 - 60 or 70 - 72 54 - 56 or 73 - 74 51 - 53 or 75 - 79 <51 or >79
×
Diamond Symmetry

A diamond's symmetry is the arrangement, size, and shaping of diamond's facets. The facets are the flat planes that run along the surfaces of the diamond. Symmetry is angles and lines that form the placement of the facets. Nowadays, symmetry is completely controlled by the manufacturing process. Machines very carefully cut diamonds to produce the most accurate shapes. However, at times the diamond cutter will leave a symmetry imperfection in the diamond in order to prevent a different inclusion from showing in the finished diamond. Symmetry is a subset of the diamond's cut grade.

Learn more about diamond symmetry.

Good to excellent Good to excellent Good to excellent Fair to Excellent Poor to Excellent
×
Diamond Polish

The term "polish" refers to the overall condition of the surfaces of a finished diamond. A rating is assigned based on the amount of polishing lines that are visible. These polishing lines are caused by very small diamond crystals which are embedded in the polishing wheels used by diamond cutters to polish the surface of the diamond after cutting. Diamond polish is important because it can affect the degree to which light is able to pass through a diamond, rendering it more or less brilliant. Diamonds that are laboratory certified with a good, very good, or excellent polish rating are the most desirable. Diamonds that have poor polish will be less brilliant and not as desirable or valuable. Reputable jewellers diamonds are graded after examining the diamond facet by facet.

Learn more about diamond polish.

Good to excellent Good to excellent Good to excellent Fair to Excellent Poor to Excellent
×
Diamond Girdle

The girdle is the outer edge of the diamond, where the crown (top) meets the pavilion (bottom).

A girdle may be faceted (a series of tiny polished sides going around the diamond), bruted (a single continuous unpolished surface going round the diamond; no longer common), or polished (a bruted girdle that has been polished smooth). Whether a girdle is faceted, bruted, or polished usually has no impact on the appearance or value of the diamond.

The girdle is described according to its width. Often, the width of the girdle varies at different points around the diamond, and is quoted in a range designating the thinnest and thickest point along the girdle (e.g. "Thin - Medium" means the diamond's girdle varies in width from thin at the narrowest point to medium at the widest point).

Learn more about the anatomy of a diamond.

Very Thin - Slightly Thick Very Thin - Slightly Thick Very Thin - Thick Very Thin - Very Thick Ex. Thin - Ex. Thick
×
Diamond Culet

The culet (pronounced cue-let) is the small area at the bottom of a diamond's pavilion. The culet can be a point or a very small facet sitting parallel to the table.

The culet size as determined by the GIA, is shown using the following scale:

None, Very Small, Small, Medium, Slightly Large, Large, Very Large.

Any culet size of Medium or smaller will be invisible to the naked eye, and have no negative impact on a diamond's appearance. However, if a culet is Slightly Large or larger, it may allow light entering from the crown to pass straight through the culet facet, reducing the diamond's brilliance. This may also make the culet appear as an inclusion, or create a dead area on the diamond where the light is escaping through the bottom.

Learn more about the anatomy of a diamond.

None Very Small Small Medium > Medium
×
Diamond L/W Ratio

The length to width (L/W) ratio is calculated by dividing a diamond's length (the longer measure) by its width (the shorter measure that runs perpendicular to length).

For example, an Oval Cut diamond that is 5.00 mm in length and 3.3 mm in width will have a L/W ratio of 1.50 (5.00/3.33). A perfectly round or square diamond will have a length to width ratio of 1.00, but many will be off slightly since they are often not perfectly cut. Any L/W ratio of 1.05 or less will appear perfectly round or square to the naked eye.

L/W ratio is more commonly used in fancy shapes. There is no "ideal" L/W ratio in a fancy shape diamond. What is important is what looks pleasing to you.

1.00 - 1.03 1.00 - 1.03 1.04 - 1.05 1.06 - 1.08 > 1.08

Asscher Diamond Cut Guide.


Evaluating color in asscher cut diamonds is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with asscher cut diamonds at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive.

Often, body color is easier to see in an asscher cut diamond (especially over 1.50 carats) because of the large, open facets. The color chart below provides a general guide for evaluating color in asscher cut diamonds:

Asscher Cut Diamond - Color Guide



Swipe left to see more.
Asscher Cut Diamond Excellent Very Good Good Fair Poor
< .50 ct. D - G H - I J - K L - M > M
.51-1.0 ct. D - F G H - I J - K > K
1.0-2.0 ct. D - F D - F G H - I > I
> 2.0 ct. D - F D - F G H - I > I
×
Diamond Fluorescence

Fluorescence refers to a diamond's tendency to emit a soft colored glow when subjected to ultraviolet light (such as a "black light"). Roughly 30% of diamonds fluoresce to some degree.

Colorless (D-F) fluorescent diamonds sell at up to a 15% discount since the fluorescence is perceived as a defect, even though the visible effects of Faint to Medium fluorescence are perceptible only to a gemologist using a special UV light source.

Because the fluorescent glow is usually blue (which is the complementary color to yellow) fluorescence can make diamonds of I-M color appear up to one grade whiter. For this reason, I-M diamonds tend to sell at a slight premium when they possess Medium to Very Strong fluorescence.

Exercise caution in purchasing a diamond with Strong fluorescence in D-F color diamonds or Very Strong fluorescence in G-H color diamonds (which do not possess enough body color to offset the higher degree of fluorescence).

Learn more about diamond fluorescence.

None Faint Medium Strong - Very Strong Strong - Very Strong

Asscher Diamond Color Guide.


Like color, evaluating clarity in asscher cut diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance. Often, inclusions are easier to see in an asscher cut diamond. While an SI1-clarity might be a great balance of price and appearance in other diamond shapes, in asscher cut a VS2 might be a comparable choice. The clarity chart below provides a general guide for evaluating clarity in asscher cut diamonds:

Asscher Cut Diamond - Clarity Guide



Swipe left to see more.
Asscher Cut Diamond Excellent Very Good Good Fair Poor
< .50 ct. FL - VS2 SI1 SI2 I1 > I1
.51-1.0 ct. FL - VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 > SI2
1.0-2.0 ct. FL - VVS2 VS1 - VS2 SI1 SI2 > SI2
> 2.0 ct. FL - VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 > SI1

Asscher Diamond Clarity Guide.


Asscher Cut Diamond History & Background


Named after its creator Joseph Asscher, owner of the Amsterdam based diamond company of the same name, the asscher cut was developed in the early 20th century at the birth of the stylish and popular Art Deco movement. Joseph Asscher rose to fame several years later when he was commissioned by King Edward VII to cut the famous 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond for the English crown jewels. In 1980 Her Majesty Queen Juliana of Holland granted the Asscher Diamond Company a royal title in recognition of the role the Asscher family and company had held in the diamond industry.

This cut's popularity peaked in the late 1920s but remained a somewhat rare commodity for the remainder of the century, available only in antique shops and specialised Art-Deco jewellers. At the onset of the new millennium, following considerable research and development, the asscher cut was redesigned with new specifications and additional facets for a more brilliant shine, and has since regained its popularity.


Asscher Cut Diamond History

Asscher Cut Diamond History.


Learn more about what you need to know in our, ultimate buying guide, if you're thinking of buying a asscher cut diamond. We break it all down from pricing, other shapes comparison and engagement ring setting choices.



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