Colorless Diamonds > Asscher Cut Diamonds

Asscher Cut Diamonds
Asscher Cut Diamonds
Asscher Cut Diamond Ring
Asscher Cut Diamond Ring.

Asscher Cut Diamond

The asscher cut features a square shape with cut corners. A high crown with large step cut facets bestows more brilliance than the other popular step cut shape, the emerald shape. Asscher shaped diamonds are sleek and modern in solitaire settings, and their unique shape perfectly complements vintage inspired styles.

The asscher cut diamond was first produced in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland, famous at the time for cutting the world's largest rough stone (the Cullinan, at 3,106 carats). Asscher cut diamonds originally peaked in popularity in the 1920's, and could recently be found only in antique jewellery shops. Around 2002, one hundred years after the first asscher cut diamond was created, the shape began to make a comeback, spurred on by cut modifications that gave the shape more brilliance than traditional asscher cut diamonds.

Asscher Cut Diamonds

The Basics

Also referred to as: SQUARE EMERALD CUT

Asscher Cut Diamond Basics

Asscher Cut Quick Guide

Unique Features

Brightest step cut, "hall of mirrors" effect


50 or 58 (Royal Asscher has 74)

L/W Ratio

1.00 - 1.05


Art-deco era, early 20th Century

Expert Tip

Clarity VS1/VS2 and higher is optimal


Asscher Cut Diamond Features

The asscher cut is a unique shape with prismatic brilliance and a rectangular faceted pavilion in the same style as the emerald cut. The standard number of main facets on an Asscher cut is usually 58 and the typical ratio for the more popular square shaped Asscher cuts is 1.00 to 1.05.

The width of the cut corners may vary. Replete with timeless elegance and Art-Deco cool, the asscher cut is a rectangular shape similar to the more well known emerald cut, with prismatic brilliance, with its deep pavilion, faceted culet, high crown and small table, the Asscher cut allows for tremendous lustre and creates a fascinating optical illusion known as the "Hall of Mirrors" effect.

The asscher cut is referred to as a Square Emerald cut on a laboratory certificate, such as GIA or AGS. Although confusion reigns about what the differences are between an asscher cut and a square emerald cut, they are in fact the same thing. However, there also exists a much rarer Royal Asscher cut, which is a patented version of the original Asscher cut with wide cut corners and 74 facets (instead of 58), and is classified as an octagonal step cut by the GIA.

Expert Advice

To fully appreciate the Asscher design, it is advisable to select a diamond of higher clarity (VS2 and above for GIA and VS1 and above for EGL, to ensure it is completely eye clean). A table and depth percentage between 60 - 73.5% and 51 - 77% respectively is also recommended.

The modern asscher cut diamond is similar to a square emerald cut, usually with larger step facets, a higher crown, and a smaller table. This combination often produces more brilliance than the emerald cut. A well cut asscher will appear to have concentric squares as you look down through the table, the result of proper positioning of the pavilion facets underneath. Like the emerald cut, the asscher cut has cropped corners; however, because an asscher is square, the cropped corners give the asscher cut a somewhat octagonal shape. Once mounted in a four prong setting, the diamond maintains its unique shape within a square silhouette.

The classic asscher cut diamond is a square (with a length to width ratio of 1.00); however they are often found in slightly rectangular shapes as well. Any ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye.

The chart below serves as a general guideline for evaluating the cut of an asscher cut diamond:

Asscher Diamond - Cut Guide

Asscher Cut Excellent Very Good Good Fair Poor
Depth % 58 to 65 55 to 70 52 to 75 50 to 80 >50 or <80
Table % 60 to 65 59 to 70 52 to 75 50 to 80 >50 or <80
Symmetry Good to excellent Good to excellent Good to excellent Fair to Excellent Poor to Excellent
Polish Good to excellent Good to excellent Good to excellent Fair to Excellent Poor to Excellent
Girdle Very Thin - Sl Thick Very Thin - Sl Thick Very Thin to Thick Very Thin to Very Thick Ex. Thin to Ex. Thick
Culet None Very Small Small Medium > Medium
L/W Ratio 1.00 to 1.03 1.00 to 1.03 1.04 to 1.05 1.06 to 1.08 > 1.08

Evaluating color in asscher cut diamonds is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with asscher cut diamonds at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive. Often, body color is easier to see in an asscher cut diamond (especially over 1.50 carats) because of the large, open facets. The color chart below provides a general guide for evaluating color in asscher cut diamonds:

Asscher Diamond - Color Guide

Asscher Cut Excellent Very Good Good Fair Poor
< .50 ct. D - G H - I J - K L - M > M
.51-1.0 ct. D - F G H - I J - K > K
1.0-2.0 ct. D - F D - F G H - I > I
> 2.0 ct. D - F D - F G H - I > I
Fluorescence None Faint Medium Strong - Very Strong Strong - Very Strong

Like color, evaluating clarity in asscher cut diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance. Often, inclusions are easier to see in an asscher cut diamond. While an SI1-clarity might be a great balance of price and appearance in other diamond shapes, in asscher cut a VS2 might be a comparable choice. The clarity chart below provides a general guide for evaluating clarity in asscher cut diamonds:

Asscher Diamond - Clarity Guide

Asscher Cut Excellent Very Good Good Fair Poor
< .50 ct. FL - VS2 SI1 SI2 I1 > I1
.51-1.0 ct. FL - VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 > SI2
1.0-2.0 ct. FL - VVS2 VS1 - VS2 SI1 SI2 > SI2
> 2.0 ct. FL - VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 > SI1

History & Background

Named after its creator Joseph Asscher, owner of the Amsterdam based diamond company of the same name, the asscher cut was developed in the early 20th century at the birth of the stylish and popular Art Deco movement. Joseph Asscher rose to fame several years later when he was commissioned by King Edward VII to cut the famous 3,106-carat Cullinan diamond for the English crown jewels. In 1980 Her Majesty Queen Juliana of Holland granted the Asscher Diamond Company a royal title in recognition of the role the Asscher family and company had held in the diamond industry. This cut's popularity peaked in the late 1920s but remained a somewhat rare commodity for the remainder of the century, available only in antique shops and specialised Art-Deco jewellers. At the onset of the new millennium, following considerable research and development, the asscher cut was redesigned with new specifications and additional facets for a more brilliant shine, and has since regained its popularity.

Asscher Cut Diamond History