Oval cut diamond.
The ever flattering oval shape is symmetrical and exhibits a similar fire and brilliance to round shaped diamonds. A scintillating twist on the classic round brilliant, the elongated shape can create the illusion of larger size. Oval diamonds are highly versatile, remarkably elegant, and distinctive.
Oval cut diamond.
Created by Lazare Kaplan in the 1960's, oval diamonds are a modified brilliant cut (like virtually all round cuts). Because the two shapes possess a similar fire and brilliance, the oval is an ideal choice for a customer who likes the look of a round diamond, but wants something more unique. The slender shape can also make the finger of the wearer appear longer and slimmer, an effect often desired.
Oval cut diamond ring.
Oval cut diamond features.
The oval cut is a rounded shape typically comprised of 58 facets with a typical ratio between 1.33 and 1.66.
Somewhere in between the round brilliant and the pear shape, the oval cut is the perfect choice if you are wishing to savour the sparkle of the round brilliant in a slightly rarer and more elongated form.
A "bow-tie effect" occurs when light passing through the diamond casts a shadow across the central facets of the diamond. This shadow can be reduced by altering the depth of the pavilion, and adjusting the angles of the table and facets to better diffuse light in the central area. This effect also occurs in the pear, marquise and heart shapes.
Oval cut diamond bow-tie.
Due to their elongated shape, most oval cut diamonds exhibit bow-tie effect, which occurs when some of the light at the centre is leaked and not reflected back to the table.
Sometimes the bow-tie effect in oval diamonds is easily noticeable and other times it is hardly visible. The truth is that a prominent bow-tie effect distracts from the beauty of the diamond, which is why you should make sure the diamond you choose doesn't have a dominant bow-tie, meaning it's not the first thing you see when looking at an oval cut diamond.
Some oval diamonds may have slight bow-ties that do not significantly affect their radiance and scintillation, and may even add to their unique appeal. However, you should definitely avoid buying an oval diamond where the bow-tie effect causes large dark areas. Trust your eyes when you examine an oval diamond in order to bypass the risk of buying a diamond with an obvious bow-tie.
Bow-ties are often a result of the diamond pavilion being cut too deep, similar to a "nail head round diamond".
Ratio is an important aspect to consider with the oval shape as it can have a significant impact on both the light dispersion within the diamond and the appearance of the finger. When selecting an oval shape it is important to reconcile the relative benefits of the longer shape (larger ratio) and the more rounded shape (smaller ratio). The former will better elongate the finger, while a more rounded shape will better prevent the bow-tie effect.
Preferences vary on how narrow or fat an oval cut diamond should be, so choose what appeals to you personally (though a length to width ratio of 1.35 - 1.50 is considered the classic oval cut). A slightly thinner cut may look most appealing in a setting where the diamond is flanked by side stones.
The quality of the cut is the most crucial factor in maximizing the brilliance and fire of the diamond.
While the GIA provides cut grading for some cuts, such as the round brilliant, it doesn't provide cut grading for oval cut diamonds due to their complex and unique structure.
The chart below serves as a general guideline for evaluating the cut of an oval diamond:
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Oval Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
58 - 62 | 56 - 57.9 or 62.1 - 66 | 53 - 55.9 or 66.1 - 71 | 50 - 52.9 or 71.1 - 74 | <50 or >74 | |
53 - 63 | 52 or 64 - 65 | 51 or 64 - 65 | 50 or 69 - 70 | <50 or >70 | |
Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Fair to Excellent | Poor to Excellent | |
Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Fair to Excellent | Poor to Excellent | |
Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Thick | Very Thin - Very Thick | Ex. Thin - Ex. Thick | |
None | Very Small | Small | Medium | > Medium | |
1.35 - 1.50 | 1.30 - 1.34 or 1.52 - 1.55 | 1.25 - 1.29 or 1.56 - 1.60 | 1.20 - 1.24 or 1.61 - 1.65 | <1.20 or >1.65 |
Oval diamond cut guide.
Oval cut diamond length to width ratio.
Evaluating color in oval diamonds is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with oval diamonds at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive.
Color in oval cut diamonds is graded by the GIA on a scale from D to Z.
As a general rule, smaller oval diamonds hide color better than larger ones do. That is why. depending on the size of the diamond you are going to purchase you may not need to buy a premium colorless diamond even if you want it to look colorless. While its usually impossible to see the difference between two color grades for an untrained eye, the difference in price can be significant. The color chart below provides a general guide for evaluating color in oval diamonds:
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Oval Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
< .50 ct. | D - G | H - I | J - K | L - M | > M |
.51-1.0 ct. | D - F | G | H - I | J - K | > K |
1.0-2.0 ct. | D - F | D - F | G - H | I - J | > J |
>>2.0 ct. | D - F | D - F | G | H - I | > I |
None | Faint - Med | Strong | Very Strong | Very Strong |
Oval diamond color guide.
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Oval cut diamond color.
Like color, evaluating clarity in oval diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance.
Due to their shape, oval diamonds tend to hide blemishes and inclusions well. It is nearly impossible to notice imperfections near the rounded end or where the setting will lay.
While clarity in oval cut diamonds is graded by the GIA on a scale from FL to I3, it is important to understand that everyone has a unique standard for clarity. Some may feel comfortable with inclusions as long as they are not eye seen, while others insist on flawless appearance. The clarity chart below provides a general guide for evaluating clarity in oval diamonds:
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Oval Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
< .50 ct. | FL - VS2 | SI1 - SI2 | I1 | I2 | > I2 |
.51-1.0 ct. | FL - VS1 | VS2 - SI1 | SI2 | I1 - I2 | > I2 |
1.0-2.0 ct. | FL - VVS2 | VS1 - VS2 | SI1 - SI2 | I1 | > I1 |
> 2.0 ct. | FL - VVS2 | VS1 - VS2 | SI1 | SI2 | > SI2 |
Oval diamond clarity guide.
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Oval cut diamond clarity.
Although oval shaped diamonds were first introduced over 200 years ago, the modern oval cut was invented in the early 1960s by leading Russian cutter Lazare Kaplan. The cut eventually earned him a place in the Jewellers International Hall of Fame, however, Kaplan also left his mark on the diamond industry with his unique ability to split a rough diamond into smaller stones with a single blow. This process is known as cleaving.
When a rough material is poorly shaped or contains defective flaws that prevent it from being turned into a single stone, it must be split along the grain. Kaplan became famous for his expertise in taking stones that were otherwise deemed unworthy and transforming them into beautifully cut diamonds.
Oval cut diamond history.
Learn more about what you need to know in our ultimate buying guide, if you're thinking of buying a oval cut diamond. We break it all down from pricing, other shapes comparison and engagement ring setting choices.