Marquise cut diamond.
The marquise shaped diamond features pointed ends with a curved middle for an eye catching look. With a larger surface area than any other diamond shape, the marquise shape maximizes perceived size and lends a unique look to any setting style.
Marquise cut diamond.
Originally commissioned in 18th century Paris by King Louis XV to emulate the smile of his mistress the Marchioness Madame de Pompadour, the Marquise harkens back to the glory of the age d'or, and is also an ideal way to optimise carat weight and elongate the finger.
Marquise cut diamond ring.
Marquise cut diamond features.
The marquise brilliant cut may also be referred to as the "Navette" shape, meaning "little boat," as the shape of the diamond is said to mirror the hull of a small boat. It is generally comprised of 58 facets, with 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion, although the number of pavilion facets may range between 4 and 8. Additionally, marquise shapes are sometimes cut with a "French tip," which replaces the large bezel facet at the point with star and upper girdle facets.
French tips are also used in the heart and pear shapes. Even though the optimal ratio of the Marquise is 2.10, the shape is more traditionally cut to ratios ranging between 1.85 and 2.10 according to personal preference.
The Marquise can suffer from a so called "bow-tie effect" when light passing through the diamond casts a shadow across the central facets of the diamond. This shadow can be reduced by altering the depth of the pavilion, and adjusting the angles of the table and facets to better diffuse light in the central area. This effect also occurs in the pear, oval and heart shapes.
Marquise cut diamond bow-tie.
The biggest drawback of the marquise cut is one that affects all other elongated cuts, the bow-tie effect. The bow-tie effect is a dark shadow that can appear in the middle of the stone when viewed from certain angles. It appears because light is reflected off the bottom of the stone and out of the sides, rather than back through the top of the diamond to the viewer's eye. The visibility of the bow-tie effect depends on how well each individual stone has been cut, but a well-cut diamond will dramatically reduce its visibility.
Depending on its intensity and size, a bow-tie detracts from the overall appearance of a marquise diamond. However, in most cases, you may not be able to avoid a bow-tie, as those without a bow-tie effect usually tend to look dull and less brilliant.
Sometimes the bow-tie effect in marquise diamonds is easily noticeable and other times it is hardly visible. That is why you should make sure the diamond you choose doesn't have a dominant bow-tie, meaning it's not the first thing you see when looking at a marquise cut diamond.
The marquise cut can maximise carat weight, making it appear larger than other diamonds of the same size and is often set with round or pear shaped side diamonds. As with other elongated shapes, the Marquise can make fingers appear longer and more slender. It is important that the marquise is not too shallow so as to avoid light passing through the back of the diamond and diminishing its brilliance and fire. Carat for carat, the marquise diamond has one of the largest crown surface areas of any diamond shape, making it a good choice when trying to maximize the perceived size of a diamond.
Marquise diamond body.
Symmetry is very important in marquise cuts. The two end points should align with each other, and the right and left sides should form a near mirror image. Even a slight misalignment in the points can result in an off kilter look in the final setting. For this reason, excellent or very good symmetry is strongly recommended.
A marquise diamond should always be set with prongs to protect the two points (the most likely location for chipping). Because these points were once nearest the outer edge of the rough diamond, flaws such as naturals, extra facets, and other inclusion may be located here. Since the points are covered by prongs, these flaws will be invisible once the diamond is set. The only remaining concern would be if the flaws are significant enough to affect the stability of the diamond (this is extremely rare, however).
While the GIA provides cut grading for some cuts, such as the round brilliant, it doesn't provide cut grading for marquise cut diamonds due to their complex and unique structure. However, there are some key features to be considered to have a brilliant and sparkly diamond.
Diamond symmetry is extremely important in marquise cut diamonds. The two points should align with each other and the right and left sides should form a mirror image. Even a slight misalignment in the points can greatly impact the final look, which is why excellent or very good symmetry is strongly recommended.
The chart below serves as a general guideline for evaluating the cut of a marquise diamond:
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| Marquise Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 58 - 62 | 56 - 57.9 or 62.1 - 66 | 53 - 55.9 or 66.1 - 71 | 50 - 52.9 or 71.1 - 74 | <50 or >74 | |
| 53 - 63 | 52 or 64 - 65 | 51 or 66 - 68 | 50 or 69 - 70 | <50 or >70 | |
| Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Fair to Excellent | Poor to Excellent | |
| Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Fair to Excellent | Poor to Excellent | |
| Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Thick | Very Thin - Very Thick | Ex. Thin - Ex. Thick | |
| None | Very Small | Small | Medium | > Medium | |
| 1.85 - 2.00 | 1.75 - 1.84 or 2.01 - 2.15 | 1.65 - 1.74 or 2.16 - 2.30 | 1.55 - 1.64 or 2.31 - 2.45 | <1.55 or >2.45 |
Marquise diamond cut guide.
Marquise cut diamond length to width ratio.
Evaluating color in a marquise cut diamond is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with a marquise cut diamond at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive.
In larger marquise diamonds (over 1.00 carat), the color may appear slightly darker at the points. For this reason, buyers may choose to move up one color grade as compared to other diamond shapes.
Color of marquise cut diamonds is graded on a scale from D to Z. where D signifies a completely colorless diamond and Z means an easily noticeable yellow or brown tint.
Like most diamonds, smaller marquise diamonds hide color better while larger diamonds show tints easier. However, as marquise diamonds look larger than other diamond shapes, even smaller diamonds may appear slightly darker at the points. For this reason, if you want a really colorless diamond, it is best to opt for the D-E-F range. The color chart below provides a general guide for evaluating color in marquise diamonds:
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| Marquise Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| < .50 ct. | D - G | H - I | J - K | L - M | > M |
| .51-1.0 ct. | D - F | G | H - I | J - K | > K |
| 1.0-2.0 ct. | D - F | D - F | G - H | I - J | > J |
| > 2.0 ct. | D - F | D - F | G | H - I | > I |
| None | Faint - Med | Strong | Very Strong | Very Strong |
Marquise diamond color guide.
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Marquise cut diamond color.
Like color, evaluating clarity in marquise diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance.
The GIA grades clarity of marquise cut diamonds on a scale from FL to I3, where IF means a flawless diamond and I3 indicates a heavily included diamond:
As mentioned, evaluating clarity in marquise diamonds is subjective like in case of all other diamond shapes. Let's not forget that each consumer has their standard for clarity: some feel comfortable with inclusions as long as they are not eye-seen. others prefer to have a flawless diamond. The clarity chart below provides a general guide for evaluating clarity in marquise diamonds:
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| Marquise Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| < .50 ct. | FL - VS2 | SI1 - SI2 | I1 | I2 | > I2 |
| .51-1.0 ct. | FL - VS1 | VS2 - SI1 | SI2 | I1 - I2 | > I2 |
| 1.0-2.0 ct. | FL - VVS2 | VS1 - VS2 | SI1 - SI2 | I1 | > I1 |
| > 2.0 ct. | FL - VVS2 | VS1 - VS2 | SI1 | SI2 | > SI2 |
Marquise diamond clarity guide.
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Marquise cut diamond clarity.
The Marquise cut first appeared in Paris circa 1745 and its fascinating history can be traced back to the height of the French monarchy. King Louis XV commissioned his court jeweller to create a diamond that resembled the smile of his beautiful mistress, the Marchioness Madame de Pompadour. A well educated and intellectual woman who exerted strong political opinions on the French court, Madame de Pompadour was the official maitresse en titre of King Louis XV between 1745 and 1750.
The shape was then developed and modified throughout the 20th century, evolving into the marquise brilliant cut as it is known today, seeing an especial rise in popularity between the 1960s and 1980s. The marquise cut first appeared in Paris in approximately 1745. The fascinating history of the marquise cut can be traced back to the height of the French monarchy reign.
Marquise cut diamond history.
Learn more about what you need to know in our ultimate buying guide, if you're thinking of buying a marquise cut diamond. We break it all down from pricing, other shapes comparison and engagement ring setting choices.
