Heart cut diamond.
The heart shaped diamond is an evocative signifier of true love. They shimmer with two symmetrical halves, creating a bold and romantic look. Heart shaped diamonds are especially popular in Claddagh designs (The Claddagh ring is a traditional Irish ring which represents love, loyalty, and friendship, the hands represent friendship, the heart represents love, and the crown represents loyalty.), and offer a distinctive look in any engagement ring setting.
Heart cut diamond.
The modified brilliant cut heart shaped diamond is a unique and unmistakable symbol of love. Heart shaped diamonds are very popular in solitaire pendants as well as rings. When choosing a heart, symmetry is a very important characteristic, since it is critical that the two halves of the heart are identical. The cleft (between the two lobes) should be sharp and distinct, and the wings (the sides as they curve down to the point) should have a very slightly rounded shape. Ever the romantic choice, this rare and symbolic cut is the ideal way to wear your heart on your finger, not your sleeve, and there is surely no better way to be in love and in style all at once.
Heart cut diamond ring.
Heart cut diamond features.
The heart shape is usually comprised of between 56 and 58 facets, although the number of main pavilion facets may vary between 6, 7 and 8. Additionally, heart shapes are sometimes cut with "French tips," which replace the large bezel facet at the point with star and upper girdle facets. French tips are also used in the marquise and pear shapes. Heart shapes may differ slightly in appearance depending on their make or structure.
The traditional heart shape should have a ratio between 0.90 and 1.10 and be absolutely symmetrical with the lobes (top arches) of even height and breadth, although these specifications may be altered according to personal preferences.
Heart diamond body.
In determining the length to width ratio for heart shapes, the width is measured at the widest point of the shape from the edge of one lobe to the other. In addition, the heart shape can suffer from a so called "bow-tie effect" when light passing through the diamond casts a shadow across the central facets of the diamond.
Heart cut diamond bow-tie.
The bow-tie effect is a phenomenon that affects many fancy-cut diamond shapes, including the heart-shaped diamond. It appears as a black shadow pattern across the diamond that resembles the formation of a bow-tie.
It is a result of light obstruction and facets that are unable to 'bounce' light back towards the eye, causing the dark or black shadows to appear.
Reducing the bow-tie effect requires a skilled cutter who has carefully considered the angles and proportions involved in all of the diamond, not merely those which may display the bow-tie effect.
The most important elements to consider with the heart shape are the quality of the curved cut and finish as these determine the sparkle of the gem. The shadow caused by the bow-tie effect can be reduced by altering the depth of the pavilion, and adjusting the angles of the table and facets to better diffuse light in the central area. This effect also occurs in the pear, marquise and oval shapes.
Heart shaped diamonds of less than 0.50 carats may not be a good choice, as the heart shape is more difficult to perceive in smaller diamonds, especially after they are set in prongs. For smaller hearts, a bezel or three prong setting (one prong on each lobe, one prong at the point) will better preserve the heart shape outline of the diamond after it is set.
Heart shaped diamonds come in a variety of silhouettes, from narrow to fat. The choice of a particular silhouette should be dictated by personal preference, though the length to width ratio of a classic heart shaped diamond is approximately 1.00. For hearts that are to be set in pendants, buyers may prefer a slightly narrow cut (1.05 - 1.15), while for hearts set in a solitaire ring, a slightly black wide cut (0.85 - 1.00) may be most appealing.
Cut quality is the most important factor in maximizing brilliance and fire and affecting the overall appearance of heart-shaped diamonds.
Unlike round brilliant and other common diamond cuts, the GIA doesn't provide any information other than polish and symmetry on heart-shaped diamonds. It is very important for you to carefully examine any heart diamond before making a purchase.
As mentioned, since the heart is a quite complex shape there are several factors to be considered to find out if the diamond is cut properly.
A heart-shaped diamond should have a distinct cleft. The point should be obvious as well: otherwise, the diamond will appear rounded. While the point should not necessarily be very sharp, it should divide the bottom section of the diamond into two separate halves.
Check the lobes of the diamond, they should be rounded and perfectly symmetrical. The belly and wings should be slightly rounded creating an ideal heart shape. In other words, try to draw an imaginary straight line down the middle of the diamond: the two halves should look identical with no variations in size and shape.
The chart below serves as a general guideline for evaluating the cut of a heart shaped diamond:
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| Heart Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 58 - 62 | 56 - 57.9 or 62.1 - 66 | 53 - 55.9 or 66.1 - 71 | 50 - 52.9 or 71.1 - 74 | <50 or >74 | |
| 53 - 63 | 52 or 64 - 65 | 51 or 66 - 68 | 50 or 69 - 70 | <50 or >70 | |
| Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Fair to Excellent | Poor to Excellent | |
| Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Fair to Excellent | Poor to Excellent | |
| Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Thick | Very Thin - Very Thick | Ex. Thin - Ex. Thick | |
| None | Very Small | Small | Medium | > Medium | |
| 0.95 - 1.02 | 0.89 - 0.94 or 1.03 - 1.05 | 0.83 - 0.94 or 1.03 - 1.05 | 0.80 - 0.83 or 1.11 - 1.15 | <0.80 or >1.15 |
Heart diamond cut guide.
Heart cut diamond length to width ratio.
Evaluating color in heart shaped diamonds is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with heart shaped diamonds at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive.
The color of heart-shaped diamonds is graded on a scale from D to Z, where D signifies a completely colorless diamond and Z means an easily noticeable yellow or brown tint.
Since the heart is a modified version of the round brilliant cut, heart-shaped diamonds reflect a lot of light and it is harder to distinguish any tints in them. This means there is no need to opt for the colorless range, as heart diamonds in the near colorless range still look fairly colorless to the naked eye. The color chart below provides a general guide for evaluating color in heart shaped diamonds:
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| Heart Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| < .50 ct. | D - G | H - I | J - K | L - M | > M |
| .51-1.0 ct. | D - F | G | H - I | J - K | > K |
| 1.0-2.0 ct. | D - F | D - F | G - H | I - J | > J |
| > 2.0 ct. | D - F | D - F | G | H - I | > I |
| None | Faint - Med | Strong | Very Strong | Very Strong |
Heart diamond color guide.
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Heart cut diamond color.
Like color, evaluating clarity in heart shaped diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance.
The GIA grades clarity of heart-shaped diamonds on a scale from FL to I3, where FL means a flawless diamond and I3 indicates a heavily included diamond.
As mentioned, its important to understand that each customer has a unique standard for clarity. Some are comfortable with inclusions, others prefer flawless diamonds: however, in general, it is recommended to look for an eye-clean diamond.
With heart-shaped diamonds any clarity grade higher than SI1 should provide an eye-clean appearance, meaning the flaws won't be visible when the jewel is worn. The clarity chart below provides a general guide for evaluating clarity in heart shaped diamond:
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| Heart Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| < .50 ct. | FL - VS2 | SI1 - SI2 | I1 | I2 | > I2 |
| .51-1.0 ct. | FL - VS1 | VS2 - SI1 | SI2 | I1 - I2 | > I2 |
| 1.0-2.0 ct. | FL - VVS2 | VS1 - VS2 | SI1 - SI2 | I1 | > I1 |
| > 2.0 ct. | FL - VVS2 | VS1 - VS2 | SI1 | SI2 | > SI2 |
Heart diamond clarity guide.
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Heart cut diamond clarity.
The exact origins of the heart brilliant are unknown although being a modified brilliant cut it may have appeared as early as the 16th century. However, gems which would today be classified as 'triangular with rounded corners' or 'drops' were at one time described as being heart shaped. Indeed, this is evident from the many descriptions in French inventories dating from the middle of the seventeenth century.
The first recorded heart shape diamond appears in a portrait entitled "The Gonzaga Princess," painted circa 1605 by Frans Pourbus the younger. The large piece of jewellery on the princess's left sleeve contains a variety of different cuts, some of which are thought to be versions of the heart like 'drops' popular in France at the time. The heart shape is also mentioned in a book written in 1655 by Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, the French merchant traveller who found his fortune in the precious stone trade and famously brought the Hope Diamond to France. In the text, he recalls seeing the "Heart Diamond," a 36-carat heart shaped brilliant in an ornament in the treasure of Aurangzeb, in India.
Heart cut diamond history.
Learn more about what you need to know in our ultimate buying guide, if you're thinking of buying a heart cut diamond. We break it all down from pricing, other shapes comparison and engagement ring setting choices.
