Pear cut diamond.
The modified brilliant cut pear shapes feature a rounded edge tapering to a point at the opposite end. This unique shape flatters fingers and offers a distinctive look. A fusion of the marquise shape and the most popular round brilliant cut, pear shaped diamonds are intended to showcase the sparkle of the diamond, making it important to find a diamond with great symmetry.
Pear cut diamond.
The diamond is always worn with the narrow end pointing toward the hand of the wearer. Like marquise and oval cuts, the pear shaped diamond comes in a variety of slim to wide cuts, and has the added benefit of making the wearer's fingers appear longer and slimmer.
Pear cut diamond ring.
Pear cut diamond features.
The pear shape is a unique and hybrid diamond cut combining the brilliance and design style of both the round brilliant and the marquise that results in a shape with a single point and rounded end.
The typical ratio is between 1.50 and 1.70 and the diamond is usually comprised of 58 facets, although the number of pavilion facets may range from 4 to 8. Additionally, pear shapes are sometimes cut with a "French tip," which replaces the large bezel facet at the point with star and upper girdle facets. French tips are also used in the heart and marquise shapes. Pear shaped diamonds may vary in appearance with some having what is referred to as "high shoulders", making the diamond appear more angular.
The pear shape can suffer from a so-called "bow-tie effect" when light passing through the diamond casts a shadow across the central facets of the diamond. This shadow can be reduced by altering the depth of the pavilion, and adjusting the angles of the table and facets to better diffuse light in the central area. This effect also occurs in the heart, marquise and oval shapes.
Pear cut diamond bow-tie.
Many pear shaped diamonds show a bow-tie effect. This pattern usually appears across the width of the diamond from the centre of the table.
Depending on its intensity and size, a bow-tie detracts from the overall appearance of a pear shaped diamond. A bow-tie gets darker as the length to width ratio increases and pavilion angle variations become more extreme.
A well-cut pear shaped diamond should show a minimal bow-tie. But there will still be a noticeable contrast between light and dark areas in the diamond. In most cases, you may not be able to avoid a bow-tie, but you can find a diamond in which it is suitable.
The optimal pear shape is one with a polished girdle and a rounded base, or "even shoulders". However, much like the oval cut, a more attenuated pear shape may elongate the fingers, so it is important to reconcile these two qualities. Additionally, color is often more visible towards the tip of the pear shape, so to ensure an even tone throughout the diamond it is advisable to opt for colors H and above.
Pear diamond body.
Ideally, a pear shaped diamond should possess excellent or very good symmetry. The point should line up with the apex of the rounded end. The shoulders and wings (the upper and lower curves on the right and left side of the diamond) should form uniform, symmetrical curves, with no straight edges. The rounded top should not appear narrow or squat, but like a semi-circle. In a misguided effort to add weight to a diamond (by incorporating more of the rough diamond in the final cut) cutters may give the diamond added girth near the point or top, giving the diamond a squared off or squatty appearance.
While the length to width ratio of classic pear shaped diamonds is 1.50-1.70, personal preference will again dictate choice. The shape preference may also be affected by the diamond's eventual setting: A narrow pear diamond is ideal for dangle earrings, while a wider shape might be preferred for a solitaire ring.
A pear diamond should always be set with a prong at the point, the most likely location for chipping on a pear cut diamond. Because this point was once nearest the outer edge of the rough diamond, flaws such as naturals, extra facets, and other inclusions may be located here. Since the point is covered by a prong, these flaws will be invisible once the diamond is set. The only remaining concern would be if the flaws are significant enough to affect the stability of the diamond (this is extremely rare, however).
While the GIA provides cut grading for some cuts, such as the round brilliant, it doesn't provide cut grading for pear shaped diamonds due to their complex and unique structure. However, there are some parameters to be considered to have a brilliant and sparkly diamond.
An ideal pear shaped diamond should possess excellent or very good symmetry, meaning the pointed end should line up with the apex of the rounded end. The shoulders and wings (curves on the right and left sides) should be symmetrical without straight edges. while the rounded top should form a semi-circle.
The chart below serves as a general guideline for evaluating the cut of a pear shaped diamond:
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Pear Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
58 - 62 | 56 - 57.9 or 62.1 - 66 | 53 - 55.9 or 66.1 - 71 | 50 - 52.9 or 71.1 - 74 | <50 or >74 | |
53 - 63 | 52 or 64 - 65 | 51 or 66 - 68 | 50 or 69 - 70 | <50 or >70 | |
Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Fair to Excellent | Poor to Excellent | |
Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Good to excellent | Fair to Excellent | Poor to Excellent | |
Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Slightly Thick | Very Thin - Thick | Very Thin - Very Thick | Ex. Thin - Ex. Thick | |
None | Very Small | Small | Medium | > Medium | |
1.45 - 1.55 | 1.40 - 1.44 or 1.56 - 1.65 | 1.35 - 1.39 or 1.66 - 1.80 | 1.25 - 1.34 or 1.81 - 2.00 | <1.25 or >2.00 |
Pear diamond cut guide.
Pear cut diamond length to width ratio.
Evaluating color in pear diamonds is subjective. Keep in mind that many buyers may actually prefer the ever so slightly warmer colors of a G-H diamond over the cool colorlessness of a D-F diamond. In fact, most of the premium in price associated with pear shaped diamonds at the higher end of the color scale is driven by supply and demand; customers want the D-F color grades, and are willing to pay a premium to get them. In a world without diamond color grading, the price premium for higher grades would be much lower, as the actual differences in color are difficult to perceive. In larger pear diamonds (over 1.00 carat), the color may appear slightly darker at the point. For this reason, buyers may choose to move up one color grade as compared to other diamond shapes.
In terms of importance, color is considered to be the second most important factor after the cut to affect the overall appearance of pear cut diamonds.
Like most diamond shapes, smaller pear shaped diamonds will hide color better while larger diamonds will show yellowish and brownish tints easier. The color chart below provides a general guide for evaluating color in pear shaped diamonds:
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Pear Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
< .50 ct. | D - G | H - I | J - K | L - M | > M |
.51-1.0 ct. | D - F | G | H - I | J - K | > k |
1.0-2.0 ct. | D - F | D - F | G - H | I - J | > J |
> 2.0 ct. | D - F | D - F | G | H - I | > I |
None | Faint - Med | Strong | Very Strong | Very Strong |
Pear diamond color guide.
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Pear cut diamond color.
Like color, evaluating clarity in pear diamonds is subjective. GIA provides excellent help with their clarity grades. Still, it is important to understand that each customer will have a unique standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with an inclusion as long as they cannot easily see it. Others may insist on a more technically flawless appearance.
Depending on their type, inclusions can affect the brilliance and fire of a diamond. However, pear cut diamonds due to their unique design tend to hide inclusions well, especially if the flaws are at the tapered end.
It's even harder to see imperfections in a smaller pear shaped diamond than in a larger one, meaning you can opt for a smaller diamond with lower clarity grade and have a diamond with an eye-clean appearance. The clarity chart below provides a general guide for evaluating clarity in pear shaped diamonds:
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Pear Cut Diamond | Excellent | Very Good | Good | Fair | Poor |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
< .50 ct. | FL - VS2 | SI1 - SI2 | I1 | I2 | > I2 |
.51-1.0 ct. | FL - VS1 | VS2 - SI1 | SI2 | I1 - I2 | > I2 |
1.0-2.0 ct. | FL - VVS2 | VS1 - VS2 | SI1 - SI2 | I1 | > I1 |
> 2.0 ct. | FL - VVS2 | VS1 - VS2 | SI1 | SI2 | > SI2 |
Pear diamond clarity guide.
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Pear cut diamond clarity.
The first pear shaped diamond was created in the 1400s by Flemish cutter Lodewyk van Berquem of Bruges, inventor of the diamond-polishing wheel, or scaif.
This invention enabled him to polish all the facets of the diamond to optimize light reflection within it. It was from this watershed moment onwards that diamonds began to be used in jewellery.
Van Berquem also pioneered the now commonplace symmetrical arrangement of facets on a diamond, this in turn led him to fashion the pear shaped "Pendeloque" or "Briolette" cut.
Pear cut diamond history.
Learn more about what you need to know in our ultimate buying guide, if you're thinking of buying a pear cut diamond. We break it all down from pricing, other shapes comparison and engagement ring setting choices.